The weather along Thailand’s lush eastern coast changes the minute you leave the beach. A mere 20 or 30 yards inland, the fresh breeze flowing in from the Gulf of Thailand fades amid the thick mangroves, and you enter a dome of oppressive, gagging tropical heat. The view changes, too, from white sand beaches and a few fishing boats bobbing on the expansive blue ocean to acres of murky, rectangular, manmade ponds.It’s here, at a roadside station near the town of Laem Sing, that I watch workers load hundreds of pounds of America’s favorite seafood into the backs of sweltering trucks. Some 20 laborers have gathered at the station to sort the still-squirming crustaceans. Load after load of shrimp, treated more like gravel than someone’s future appetizer, are dumped from laundry baskets onto a low wooden table slick with pond detritus and dismembered prawns. Women wearing dirty gloves sweat profusely as they flick the Pacific whites into baskets designated for small, medium, and large shrimp. Finally, several men, one with a cigarette dangling from his lips, hoist the filled baskets onto the trucks.The shrimp destined for your kebabs and surf-‘n’-turf combos then travel unrefrigerated to their processing plant, which I… Read full this story
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