MOST THAIS only need to say the words – guay-tiew-ruea – for their mouths to start watering. There’s nothing quite like Thai-style boat-noodles, so aromatic with long-simmered herbs, so rich in flavour and spicy in a thick, dark soup. Commonly served in a small bowl with lots of pork crackling and fried garlic, meatballs, chilli flakes, boiled morning glory and sweet basil, the noodles (to be absolutely perfect) ought to also have kanom tauy off to the side, a little coconut-milk custard for dessert. Tell a Thai travelling upcountry that the nearest guay-tiew-ruea restaurant is far away and it won’t matter. It’s a meal that must be had, and any street vendor or passing boat that’s offering boat-noodles will do. Thong Smith serves only traditional boatnoodles and seeks to bring back fond memories with its decor and design. The various sources in Ayutthaya and in Bangkok’s Rangsit district are nationally famous. In the past, the noodles were named after the cook-vendor, the venerated individual who did everything from scalding the noodles and seasoning the soup to plunking the dish in front of you and pocketing the payment. These days you can still tell a great boat-noodle restaurant by the ornamental… Read full this story
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