Bia Rebel, 409 Ormeau Road, Belfast BT7 3GP (02895 435 964). Ramen £6-£8. Sides £4-£6. Be aware. If you ask chef Brian Donnelly of Bia Rebel to explain how he makes his food, he will tell you. He will go into quite extraordinary detail. There will be hand gestures and a lot of enthusiasm. If you’re a little short on time, perhaps it’s best just to order and keep the questions to a minimum. Otherwise, do ask, because it’s a hell of a story, with a beginning, a middle and an end, that end being the engrossing bowl of ramen he will serve you. This is the thing: we are used to lengthy, sweaty-palmed stories around complex dishes, but for the most part they come greased with excess and largesse and huge price tags. The great Pierre Koffmann’s recipe for braised pig’s trotter, boned and stuffed with a chicken mousseline and morels, then glazed with a veal and madeira jus, takes pages of a cookery book, and days to prepare (not forgetting years of training to perfect; it requires surgical skill to bone out a trotter). We therefore accept that we will have to sell the most attractive of our… Read full this story
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